Anchors

In concrete floors, fasten structural beams, junction boxes, and safety rails. The wedge-shaped base of these anchors extends against the edges of the hole to create a firm hold that can tolerate strong pull-out pressures. Concrete, which can withstand the gripping pressure better than softer block and brick, is the ideal material for these anchors since the grip is concentrated at the base. They are more challenging to install than sleeve anchors, though, because they need holes that precisely match the diameter of the anchors in order to achieve their pull-out strength.

To install, insert the anchor into a drilled hole in your component until the washer and nut touch the surface. The anchor base can then be expanded by tightening the nut. Unfasten the nut to remove your component, but the anchor itself cannot be removed.

These anchors, also called Nelson studs or drawn arc weld studs,  improve the bond between concrete and steel structure. To improve adhesion and withstand shear stresses, weld them to the structure. When wet concrete is poured, their heads guarantee stable embedding. If you decide to use a stud welder, a ferrule is included. These anchors are meant to be permanently installed; to remove them, you would need to cut them out. 

To relocate, replace, or adjust parts, remove the bolt. These anchors, which are made in India from Grade 5 steel, are strong enough to hold railroad tracks and highway barriers since they have more than double the shear strength of our wedge anchors. The tapered bolt spreads the gripping power along its whole length by expanding the nut when you tighten it. Compared to wedge anchors, which concentrate the grip at the wedge, this produces a stronger hold. Compared to wedge anchors, these anchors are more tolerant of variances in hole accuracy, but they also take more torque to install. Use them away from corners, edges, and broken surfaces because the extra torque stresses your base material. 

Thread the nut onto the tapered bolt to install. Insert the anchor into a drilled hole in your component. Next, widen the nut for a secure grip by turning the bolt. The bolt can be used in the same hole over and over. A replacement expander nut, which is offered separately, is needed in order to use the bolt in a fresh hole. 

For overhead conduit, lighting, and pipe suspension in concrete, these anchors are the best option. Before a threaded rod or bolt is inserted, an internal plug in each one swells in four directions to provide a firm grip. Concrete, which can withstand the gripping pressure better than softer block and brick, is the ideal material for these anchors since the grip is concentrated at the base. Another name for them is drop-in anchors.

Insert the necessary installation tool (separately sold), insert the anchor into the hole, and use a hammer to force the tool's shoulder into contact with the anchor. All of them establish a permanent female-threaded connection that enables you to take out and put back in a threaded rod or screw. 

No adhesive or specialized installation equipment is needed; installation is as simple as twisting a nut. These anchors all include a wedge-shaped base with expansion clips that enlarge against the edges of the hole to provide a firm grip when used overhead. They are frequently used to hang pipes, conduit, and lighting. Concrete, which can withstand the gripping pressure better than softer block and brick, is the ideal material for these anchors since the grip is concentrated at the base. They are not as sturdy as our other concrete anchors for overhead use, though.

Use a nut and washer to thread the anchor onto a threaded rod for installation. The base can then be expanded by turning the nut and tapping into a drilled hole. Install these anchors to any depth over the minimum installation depth; they should be recessed. You can unfasten the nut to remove your component, but you cannot remove the anchor itself.

Adhesive grabs the lobes and knurls of the anchors to prevent them from shaking away and offers the maximum pull-out strengths. Compressors and compactors, among other heavy equipment with startling starts and stops, are frequently secured with these anchors.

To install, use epoxy adhesive (separately available) to partially fill a clean, drilled hole. Before gently twisting the anchor into the hole until it is flush with the surface, insert a screw or threaded rod into the anchor. After that, strike the screw or rod's head several times to ensure a tight fit. All of them establish a permanent female-threaded connection that enables you to take out and put back in a threaded rod or screw. 

For fastening items like warning signs and safety rails, our strongest drive anchors work best. Each one has a rounded head that gives it a polished appearance, keeps it from snagging on things, and makes it difficult to remove without permission. Because you can't remove your thing without pulling the anchor out, it's frequently utilized for permanent installations. These one-piece anchors provide a strong hold by expanding inside a drilled hole and compressing when hammered in. They are easier to install than wedge anchors because they don't require tightening.

Installing the anchor involves hammering it through your object into a hole that has been drilled until the head is flush with the surface. Keep the anchor away from corners, edges, and broken surfaces because the installation force puts stress on your base material. 

Lightweight signs and control panels are frequently mounted with these anchors, which are more secure than masonry nails but not as sturdy as other concrete anchors. They are barbed to prevent pullout after being hammered into a hole and are also referred to as tap-in rivets. For a polished appearance that won't catch on anything, all have rounded heads.

To install, hammer the anchor through your component until the head is level with the surface in a drilled hole that is just a little bit longer than the anchor. Inside the hole, the anchor will compress and then expand. Pry out the anchor to remove it. 

Fasten everything, including support beams and signposts. During construction, place these L anchors in wet concrete so that their threads protrude from the surface. These anchors are meant to be permanently installed; to remove them, you would need to cut them out. 

Fasten everything, including support beams and signposts. During construction, place these J anchors in wet concrete so that their threads protrude from the surface. These anchors are meant to be permanently installed; to remove them, you would need to cut them out. 

Install railings, machines, and floor and wall framework. To provide a firm grip, the sleeve of these anchors swells inside your hole. The anchor won't break soft materials like brick and block since the gripping power is dispersed across its length. These anchors are not as strong as wedge anchors, but they can be used in concrete close to corners, edges, and other weak spots.

To install, insert the anchor into a drilled hole in your apparatus until the head touches the surface. The anchor sleeve can then be expanded by tightening the nut or flat head. The anchor itself cannot be removed, however you can remove your machinery by loosening the nut or flat head. 

In order to slide components past these anchors and facilitate installation or adjustment, remove the bolt until the anchor is flush with your walls and flooring. They work best for machines you maintain often or door frames that must be forced into position. To provide a firm grip, each one has a sleeve that swells into your hole. The anchor won't break soft materials like brick and block since the gripping power is dispersed across its length. These anchors are not as strong as wedge anchors, but they can be used in concrete close to corners, edges, and other weak spots.

To install, insert the anchor into a drilled hole in your component until the head touches the surface. Next, widen the anchor sleeve by tightening the bolt. The nylon ring contracts as you tighten, holding the part firmly against the surface. The anchor itself cannot be removed, but the bolt may. 

These anchors are ideal for fastening heavy equipment that is constantly moving, such vibrating feeders and conveyors, to walls and floors since they won't come away. The anchor body expands as you drive the pin in, and the ridges provide a better grip by biting into the walls of the hole. The block and brick you are installing these anchors in should not be worn or broken because they take greater force to install than sleeve anchors.

To install, set the nut and slide the anchor into a drilled hole in your equipment. To make sure the anchor is completely set, hammer the pin until it is flush with the top of the bolt. 

Secure motion detectors, security cameras, and signs. The rivet heads on each of these anchors provide a completed appearance and a strong connection. When you hammer in the pin or screw, the anchors expand, making them easier to install than other kinds of block and brick anchors. Soft materials won't be cracked by the anchor because the gripping force is dispersed over its length. Although they are not as robust as other drive rivet anchors for concrete, these anchors can be utilized in concrete close to edges, corners, or other weak spots.

To install, put the anchor into a drilled hole through your component. The anchor body is then expanded by hammering the pin or screw until it is flush with the anchor's head. 

For attaching lightweight signs, displays, and panels, the rivet head is an improvement over a nail since it produces a strong connection with a polished appearance. When you hammer in the pin or screw, the anchors expand, making them easier to install than other kinds of block and brick anchors. Soft materials won't be cracked by the anchor because the gripping force is dispersed over its length.

To install, put the anchor into a drilled hole through your component. The anchor body is then expanded by hammering the pin or screw until it is flush with the anchor's head.